An overcoat goes over most of what you wear. Get it right and it works with a suit on Monday and jeans on Saturday. Get it wrong and it pulls at the shoulders, hangs too long, or only suits one outfit. Here is how to choose one, in the order that matters.
Start with length
Length decides how formal a coat looks and what it can cover. There are three broad choices.
- Mid-thigh. The most versatile length. It covers a suit jacket and looks just as right with jeans and a sweater. If this is your first overcoat, start here.
- Knee length. The classic dress coat. It reads a little more formal and makes a long, clean line, especially over tailoring.
- Below the knee. The boldest length. It suits taller frames best. On a shorter frame it can swamp you, so check the length in the product description before you buy.
One rule holds for every length: if you wear a suit or blazer, the coat should be longer than the jacket underneath. A jacket hem showing below a coat is the length mistake people notice.
Single-breasted or double-breasted
A single-breasted coat has one row of buttons and a narrow overlap at the front. It is the simpler, quieter choice. It looks right open or closed, sits cleanly over a suit, and works with casual clothes without looking overdressed. Most men should own a single-breasted coat before anything else.
A double-breasted coat has two rows of buttons and a wider overlap, often with peak lapels. It looks more formal and adds width across the chest, which suits slimmer frames well. It is designed to be worn buttoned, so try it closed, over the layers you plan to wear, before you settle on a size. Worn open, the extra fabric at the front can flap.
Both styles sit in our overcoats collection, from mid-thigh single-breasted coats to long double-breasted ones, along with stand-collar and hooded cuts.
Fit across the shoulders
The shoulders are the hardest part of a coat to alter, so judge the fit there first.
- The shoulder seam should sit at, or just past, the edge of your shoulder. A coat goes over other layers, so a little more room than your suit jacket is right.
- If the seam sits inside your shoulder, or you see a dent in the sleeve just below it, the coat is too small.
- If the seam droops well down your arm, it is too big, unless the coat is cut oversized on purpose. Check the product description for the cut.
- Reach forward as if opening a car door. The back should not pull tight across your shoulder blades.
- Sleeves should cover your shirt cuff and end near the base of your thumb.
Every product page has a general size chart in inches, covering standard US outerwear sizes from XS to XXXL. Fit varies by style, so read the description too: it often says whether a coat is cut slim, tailored, relaxed or oversized. If you fall between sizes, or plan to wear a thick knit underneath, size up.
Colors that work
Your first overcoat should go with everything you already wear. A few colors do that job well.
- Navy. The easiest to wear. It sits well over black, gray, brown and blue, and it looks right over a suit or with jeans.
- Charcoal and gray. Quiet and serious. Charcoal suits city clothes and dark shoes. A lighter gray softens a dark outfit.
- Camel. The classic second coat. It lifts navy and gray, and it pairs well with denim and brown boots. Keep the rest of the outfit simple and let the coat lead.
- Black. Sharp and formal, especially at night. It can look severe over very casual clothes, so pair it with dark denim or wool rather than faded jeans.
Patterns such as herringbone or a small check add texture without much risk. Bolder prints and brighter colors make a better second or third coat, once the basics are covered.
What to wear underneath
An overcoat is made to go over other layers, so choose it with those layers in mind.
- A suit or blazer. The classic pairing. Check the coat is long enough to cover the jacket hem and roomy enough across the back that the jacket does not bunch.
- A crew-neck or roll-neck sweater. The best casual pairing. A fine knit sits flat under a tailored coat. A chunky cable knit needs a relaxed cut or one size up.
- An oxford shirt and chinos. Simple, smart and hard to get wrong. Add a scarf for color.
- A hoodie. A hood under a single-breasted coat makes a relaxed weekend outfit. It works best with a mid-thigh coat, jeans and sneakers.
- A thin quilted layer. A slim, collarless quilted jacket can sit under a roomy overcoat. Our puffer and down jackets include collarless cuts that sit neatly beneath a coat collar.
When your coat arrives, try it on indoors over the clothes you plan to wear with it, with the tags still attached. If the fit is not right, you have 50 days from delivery to start a return or ask for an exchange. Email us first at support@wolfandcoat.com with your order number and we will reply with the steps. The full terms are in our refund policy.
