Care Guide

Most jackets need less washing than people think. A soft brush, a damp cloth and a good hanger cover most of it. This guide covers the main materials in our range. It is general advice, and the care label sewn inside your jacket always comes first.

Start with the care label

Your jacket has a care label sewn inside. It is written for that garment, so if anything on this page differs from it, follow the label.

Each product page also describes the materials. If you are not sure which section below applies to your jacket, check the product page first, or email us and we will help.

Habits that suit every jacket

  • Spot clean first. Most marks lift with a damp cloth and a little mild soap. Wash the whole jacket only when it really needs it and the label allows it.
  • Test before you treat. Try any cleaner on a small hidden spot, such as inside a hem, and let it dry before you go further.
  • Close everything before washing. Close zippers, snaps and buttons and empty the pockets.
  • Keep it cold and gentle. When a wash is allowed, use cold water, a gentle cycle and a mild liquid detergent. Skip bleach.
  • Keep it away from heat. Dry it at room temperature, away from radiators, heaters, hair dryers and strong direct sunlight. Use a dryer only if the label allows it, and only on low.
  • Air it out. After a wet or long day, hang it somewhere with moving air before it goes back in the closet.
  • Go easy with the iron. Never iron PU leather, faux suede, smooth shell fabrics or plush linings.

PU leather

Most of our leather jackets are made in PU leather, along with a number of bombers, utility jackets and trench coats. A few have a washed finish with a broken-in feel. If the product page for your jacket does not mention PU leather, check the care label or email us before you clean it.

  • Wipe it down with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then dry it with a clean towel.
  • For a stubborn mark, add a drop of mild soap to the water, wipe gently, then wipe again with clean water.
  • Do not machine wash, tumble dry or dry clean PU leather unless the care label says you can.
  • Skip alcohol, solvents, household cleaning sprays and oil-based leather conditioners.
  • If it gets wet, blot it with a towel and let it dry on a hanger at room temperature.
  • Keep it away from direct heat and long hours in strong sunlight, which are hard on the finish.
  • Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger. Folding it tightly for long periods can leave creases in the finish.
  • Some of these jackets have a faux shearling collar or a quilted or fleece lining. Care for those parts as described in the sections below.

Faux suede

The suede bombers, aviators and coats in our Shearling & Suede and bomber ranges are made in faux suede, a soft brushed fabric with a short nap.

  • Brush it now and then with a soft, clean brush, always in the same direction, to lift the nap and keep the color even.
  • Blot spills straight away with a clean, dry cloth. Press, do not rub.
  • For a small mark, dab it with a cloth barely dampened with water and a drop of mild soap. Let it dry, then brush the nap back up.
  • If it gets wet, let it dry naturally at room temperature, then brush the nap back into place.
  • Do not machine wash or dry clean it unless the label allows it, and keep it away from direct heat.

Faux shearling, sherpa and fleece linings

Faux shearling, sherpa and fleece show up as linings, collars and lapels across the range, on aviators, leather jackets, denim jackets, utility jackets, puffers and parkas. The same habits suit the plush faux fur linings in some parkas, overcoats and bombers.

  • Shake it out and let it air after wearing.
  • Once the pile is completely dry, fluff any flattened spots with a soft brush or a wide-tooth comb.
  • Spot clean the lining with a damp cloth and a little mild soap. Blot rather than scrub.
  • If the label allows machine washing, wash cold on a gentle cycle, inside out, and skip fabric softener.
  • Keep plush linings away from high heat. A hot dryer, a radiator or an iron can flatten or mat the pile.
  • Thick linings hold moisture longer than the outer fabric. Let them dry fully before you put the jacket away.
  • Some parkas and hooded jackets have a fur trim. Shake it out, let it dry naturally and do not machine wash it unless the label says you can. If it needs more than that, take the jacket to a professional cleaner.

Wool-blend and woolen coats

Many of our overcoats, and a few parkas and short bombers, are made in a wool blend or a woolen cloth, some with a felted finish.

  • Brush it after wearing with a soft clothes brush, working downward, to lift dust and lint.
  • Give it a day off between wears so creases have time to drop out.
  • Refresh it with a handheld steamer held a few inches away, or hang it in a steamy bathroom. Do not press a hot iron straight onto the cloth.
  • When it needs a full clean, take it to a dry cleaner unless the label says otherwise. Once or twice a season is usually plenty.
  • Small pills in high-rub areas, such as under the arms, can be removed gently with a fabric shaver or comb.
  • If it gets wet, hang it on a wide hanger at room temperature, away from direct heat, and let it dry fully.
  • Some coats come with a removable padded vest liner. Take it out before cleaning and check the label for how to clean each part.

Down and padded puffers

Our puffers and quilted jackets are filled with either down or padding. Check the product page or the care label to see which yours has.

  • Spot clean the shell first. Most marks come off with a damp cloth and mild soap.
  • When it needs a full wash and the label allows it, close every zipper and snap, and use cold water, a gentle cycle and a mild detergent. For down, a detergent made for down is the safest choice.
  • A front-loading machine is gentler than a top loader with a central agitator.
  • Rinse well so no soap is left in the fill.
  • If the label allows tumble drying, use low heat and check often. A couple of clean dryer balls help break up clumps. Keep going until the fill is completely dry, which can take a while.
  • If the label says to hang it to dry, hang it at room temperature and give it a shake every few hours to spread the fill evenly.
  • Skip fabric softener, and do not dry clean it unless the label says so.
  • For storage, hang it or fold it loosely. Do not leave it squashed in a tight bag or a vacuum pack for months.

Denim

Our denim jackets are made in denim or cotton twill. Some have a sherpa, fleece or flannel lining, and a few have embroidery.

  • Wash denim only when it needs it. Airing it out and spot cleaning cover most days.
  • When it does need a wash and the label allows it, turn it inside out, fasten the buttons and wash it in cold water on a gentle cycle with similar colors.
  • Dark and black denim can release some dye in the first few washes, so keep it away from light colors.
  • Hang it to dry. High heat in a dryer can shrink cotton.
  • Wash embroidered pieces inside out and do not iron over the embroidery.
  • Lined denim takes longer to dry. Make sure the lining is completely dry before you put it away, and see the lining section above.

Cotton, canvas and corduroy

Many of our work and utility jackets, and some bombers, parkas and puffers, are made in cotton, canvas or corduroy, some with quilted, fleece or sherpa linings.

  • On canvas, brush off dried mud and dust with a dry brush before you reach for water.
  • Where the label allows it, machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, inside out, and hang to dry. Heat can shrink cotton.
  • Wash corduroy inside out and smooth it by hand while it is still damp. Once dry, brush it lightly with a soft brush in the direction of the ribs.
  • If corduroy needs pressing, use a steamer, or iron it inside out on low if the label allows. Never press flat on the ribs.
  • Washed cotton pieces are meant to look soft and lived in, so a few creases are part of the look. A steamer smooths them if you prefer.

Smooth shells: windbreakers, trench coats and parkas

Our windbreakers and shells, and most of our trench and mac coats and parkas, have a smooth shell fabric, often with a matte finish or a light sheen. For our PU leather trench coats, follow the PU leather section above.

  • Wipe marks off with a damp cloth. On a coated shell, this is often all you need.
  • When a wash is needed and the label allows it, close all zippers and snaps, empty the pockets and wash cold on a gentle cycle with a mild liquid detergent.
  • Skip bleach, fabric softener and powder detergent, which can leave a residue.
  • Hang it to dry. Tumble dry only if the label says so, and only on low.
  • Do not iron shell fabrics.
  • For padded and quilted trench coats, mac coats and parkas, follow the label closely and treat the padding as in the puffer section above.
  • For soft-shell jackets with a fleece lining, let the lining dry fully and see the lining section above.

Gloves

Our Arete gloves have a fleece lining and an adjustable strap.

  • Wipe the outside with a soft, slightly damp cloth and let them dry naturally.
  • If they get wet, pull them back into shape and let them dry at room temperature, away from radiators and heaters. Flex the fingers gently as they dry to help them stay soft.
  • Do not machine wash, wring or tumble dry them.
  • Before you use any cleaner or conditioner, check the label and test it on a small hidden area first.
  • Store them flat and out of direct sunlight, not crushed in a pocket or drawer.

Storing your jacket

  • Clean it before you put it away for the season. Marks are harder to remove once they have set, and moths are drawn to worn wool.
  • Make sure it is completely dry, linings included.
  • Use a wide, shaped hanger that fills the shoulders. Thin wire hangers can pull the shoulders out of shape.
  • Empty the pockets and fasten the top button or zipper so it hangs straight.
  • Use a breathable cotton garment bag, not the plastic bag from the dry cleaner, which traps moisture.
  • Keep it somewhere cool, dry and dark, with a little space around it rather than packed tight between other coats.

Before you wear it out

Try a new jacket on at home first. You have 50 days from delivery to start a return, and the item must be unworn and unwashed, with all original tags attached and its original packaging. Keep the tags on and hold off on any cleaning until you are sure you are keeping it. The full terms are in our refund policy.

If something arrives damaged, faulty or different from what you ordered, email us within 14 days of delivery with your order number and a photo. Once confirmed, we will replace it or refund it in full at no cost to you.

Questions about care

Not sure how to treat a mark or a fabric? Email support@wolfandcoat.com with the product name and, if you can, a photo of the care label. A real person replies within 1 business day. Support hours are Monday to Friday, 8:00am to 4:00pm Mountain Time.